San Benedetto Po

Eleventh Step 2024:
San Benedetto Po

Abbey of San Benedetto in Polirone

Theme: Slowness/Speed

The eleventh rendezvous of “In cammino” took place in the Mantova area and included two distinct destinations on Thursday, July 25: in the morning, the Abbey of San Benedetto Po, and in the afternoon, the former Church of Santa Maria della Vittoria in Mantova.

The word that accompanied these two destinations could also have a dual significance: “Slowness/Speed”.

San Benedetto Po is among the most beautiful villages in Italy, an authentic gem dotted with various natural and historical sites, highlighted by the majestic abbey complex.

Founded at the beginning of the 11th century by Tedaldo di Canossa, grandfather of Matilda, on an island at the confluence of the Po and Lirone rivers (the latter was a branch of the Po that subsequently disappeared due to reclamation works), the Abbey of San Benedetto in Polirone has been a destination for pilgrims from Northern Italy or the heart of Europe on their journey to Rome and the holy places since its inception.

Several historical routes converge toward the complex, which rises near the “great river” and is referred to as the “Montecassino of Lombardy” due to its grandeur: the Via Matildica del Volto Santo, the Via Carolingia traveled by Charlemagne in the 800s to be crowned by the Pope in Rome, and the Via Romea Germanica Imperiale beloved by Barbarossa.

Even today, despite its suppression during the French Revolution and subsequent secularization, the monastery retains its charm and appeal for modern pilgrims.

The morning of July 25 began, as usual, at 10 a.m. with a visit to the Abbey, guided by Federica Guidetti, curator of the Civic Museum of Polirone, one of the largest ethnographic museums in Italy, housing over ten thousand objects from the agricultural civilization of the Po Valley.

The magnificent Basilica has preserved its Renaissance layout, rich in statues, friezes, and paintings. Some of the greatest artists of the 1500s have passed through here, from Correggio—whose fresco is still present in the former monastic refectory—to Giulio Romano and Paolo Veronese. Martin Luther also passed through Polirone during his journey to Rome in 1510. The Basilica also houses the chapel of Matilda of Canossa, whose body was acquired and transferred to the Vatican in 1632 at the behest of Pope Urban VIII.

In the Foresteria Hall, at 11 a.m., the conference titled “Abbeys, territory, and products: the lesson of ‘slow time’” began, presided over by Livia Pomodoro, holder of the UNESCO Chair “Food Systems for Sustainable Development and Social Inclusion” at the State University of Milan, focusing on the theme of “slowness” as the orderly management of the growth of territory and its products. The conference, after an introduction by Tonino Bettanini, was moderated by Claudio Serafini, Director of Organic Cities Network Europe.

In the room, alongside Vanessa Morandi, Councillor for Culture of San Benedetto Po, were several local administrators from the Mantova area, including: Marco Pasquali, Mayor of Sabbioneta; Tiberio Capucci, Mayor of Serravalle Po; Michele Bertolini, Mayor of Sustinente; Luca Visentini, Deputy Mayor of Quingentole; and Sara Manfredi, Councillor for Culture of Gonzaga.

Livia Pomodoro welcomed the participants, emphasizing the importance of the Polirone Abbey for the culture not only of our peninsula but of the entire continent.

“In this first part, we will focus on slowness – said President Pomodoro – on the lesson of slow time classically associated with nature and rural work. Our culture owes much, beyond the large cities and centers where people rush and hurry, to these places of spirituality and ‘slow’ work that are the Abbeys, where the concept of Europe as we understand it today in an open and inclusive way was born”.

Before delving into the debate, institutional greetings were given by Roberto Lasagna, Mayor of San Benedetto Po; Barbara Mazzali, Councillor for Tourism, Territorial Marketing, and Fashion of the Lombardy Region; and Enrico Volpi, Councillor with delegation for Tourism, Building, Property, and State Property of the Province of Mantova.

“We are truly honored to host the eleventh stop of ‘In cammino’ – declared Roberto Lasagna. – Here we find ourselves inside the Monastery of Polirone, founded by Matilda’s grandfather, a unique and splendid place that is defined as the Montecassino of the North. A place that retains its unaltered charm over time, despite all the difficulties we encounter as administrators in its maintenance and management. After the Napoleonic suppression and the abandonment of the monks, the complex has transformed into an important reference point for Canossian studies, not to mention the ethnographic and peasant culture museum set up here, which seeks to keep alive the memory of this Abbey and its monks who lived in harmony with the surrounding territory”.

Barbara Mazzali first thanked Livia Pomodoro for her commitment to culture and for what she does for Lombardy. “I believe – Mazzali continued – that there is so much to tell in Mantova, so much to visit and see, so there is a need for someone to help local realities communicate and promote this heritage. Religious paths are a type of tourism that is particularly interesting for us as a region. We have two important challenges in the coming years: one is the Jubilee of 2025, the other is the Milan-Cortina Olympics of 2026. These paths will lead pilgrims from Europe to Rome for the Holy Year. A kind tourism that comes to our communities, leaving an economy of scale in the territories. Therefore, religious paths are very important and must be enhanced, as they promote a slow and responsible, cultural, ‘educated,’ and sustainable tourism: and we are a region that knows how to respond to this type of tourism”.

In his speech, Enrico Volpi, after delivering greetings from the President of the Province of Mantova Carlo Bottani, highlighted that “tourism is a very important challenge, and we are experiencing it as the real challenge of our Province. Concrete development strategies must be put in place, as there are obviously costs to sustain the maintenance of these places and to make the treasures they hold accessible to the public. Culture can and must be one of the main drivers of growth for our territories. The provincial tourism observatory, together with the regional one, has highlighted the potential, opportunities, and the limits of our tourist offerings. There are many places with a high attraction index that need to be enhanced. The Province of Mantova has interpreted these aspects concretely, focusing on the development of what we call slow tourism and placing it not in opposition to so-called fast tourism, but as a complement. It is precisely on the discussion of paths and the enhancement of these historical and religious sites that we have built our strategy”.

To introduce the debate, a clip by Paolo Massobrio—journalist, writer, gastronomist, and creator of the “Golosaria” event—was presented, containing an interesting historical overview of the relationship between monastic culture and cuisine. Among the various anecdotes and curiosities recounted by Massobrio in detail was the peculiar fact that monks ate from a single plate not to spy on each other, but to ensure that their companion was eating sufficiently and not fasting beyond the assigned limit.

Then came the first segment of the conference dedicated to “New Sensitivities, New Lifestyles”, which saw the participation of Patrizio Bianchi—former Minister of Education, holder of the UNESCO Chair “Education, Growth, and Equality” at the University of Ferrara—and Carlo Triarico, President of the Association for Biodynamic Agriculture.

After the introduction by Claudio Serafini, based on the current cultural significance of the terms “fast” and “slow” related to food and more, with the image of the snail as an emblem of a more rational and humanly coherent lifestyle, the floor was given to Patrizio Bianchi.

“We all come from territories whose extraordinary richness we sometimes underestimate – began Bianchi – and we need someone to confirm our identities. We need to be able to give back to this land what it has given us… We live in an era where everything is being concentrated in a few places, but the real secret is transit, that is, the ability to penetrate, step by step, into a territory… This idea of the journey is what we are losing in an age where speed must always be ‘high’, remarkable; therefore, we need to recover the idea that we are traversing places that are not simply signs, as they represent our ability to not possess but to be possessed. I believe this is one of the founding myths we are called to reflect on, along with the fantastic need we have at this specific moment for secular pilgrimages… Many struggling people have now lost hope that a better world can be built; in this condition, it is necessary to get back on the road together, each with their own ideas and ideologies, because to get on the road means to regain hope”.

“This is the moment to act – Carlo Triarico responded – It seems clear, as stated earlier by Professor Bianchi, that we find ourselves at a critical turning point for an entire era. Anyone considering what prospects the world has today is extremely aware of this: we are likely facing a crucial turning point akin to what Benedict of Norcia faced in his time… It is time to roll up our sleeves. From this point of view, I am convinced that we can no longer ‘stay’ at any level but that we must work especially with the new generations… We must have the opportunity to ‘ignite’ them, encouraging their participation, to always ask questions, because then, as they grow up, they become a bit sclerotic and lose the desire and taste for questioning… If the answer is often insufficient, the question is never wrong… Against mercantile acceleration… the quality of idleness is fundamental, because everything we do that is useful at this moment will subsequently translate into a disaster. And what we manage to do that is not immediately useful, like this conference that does not address immediately useful outcomes, or the beauty of the friezes and grotesques of this Abbey, is a seed for the future… I put forward a culture of laziness that pursues the beauty of knowledge and commitment against the culture of efficiency…”.

The final part of the conference, titled “The Territory Tells Its Story”, featured the intervention of Stefano Pizzini from the “Stable Meadows of the Mincio Valley” Association.

The screening of the video “The Place Where Everything Happens. How Grana Padano DOP is Made”, shed light on the permanent meadows of the Mincio Valley: special natural habitats characterized by the presence of herbaceous species precious for plant biodiversity, maintained through natural fertilization and surface irrigation, according to ancient regulations dating back to the Gonzaga era. The stable meadow produces an extremely high-quality forage, entirely natural and non-impactful for the environment, which is used within the production chain of Grana Padano.

Gallery stop San Benedetto po

Eleventh Step 2024:
Mantova

former Church of Madonna della Vittoria

Theme: Slowness/Speed

In the afternoon of July 25, the “In cammino” team reached Mantova, where, at 6 p.m., in the former Church of Santa Maria della Vittoria, the event titled “The Fastest Man, the Slowest Animal. Nuvolari and the Turtle in Today’s World” took place, a dialogue-confrontation among personalities from different professional backgrounds around the key pair of words “Speed/Slowness”. The meeting was introduced and coordinated by Tonino Bettanini, Director of GIUBILEO 2025 – No’hma In cammino.

The former Church of Santa Maria della Vittoria was built by Francesco II Gonzaga in 1496 to commemorate his victory against the French troops of Charles VIII in the Battle of Fornovo. It remains a true Renaissance treasure, where the namesake altarpiece painted by Mantegna was placed, stolen in 1797 by Napoleon’s troops and taken to the Louvre.

The first part of the dialogue-confrontation, presented by Adalberto Scemma, a journalist and professor of Sports Literature at the University of Verona, was dedicated to speed in competitive sports and featured some champions from both the past and present, who shared their experiences regarding speed and execution precision in their sports discipline.

At the beginning, institutional greetings were given by Italo Scaietta, President of the Amici di Palazzo Te e dei Musei Mantovani; Giampaolo Benedini, Head of External Relations of the Scuderia Nuvolari Italia; Daniele Pagliari, President of Panathlon Tazio Nuvolari; and Learco Guerra.

Barbara Novellini, Vice President of Confindustria Mantova, bringing greetings from President Fabio Viani, explained: “From a business perspective, I would say that speed is useful and essential in times of discontinuity, when it is necessary to act quickly and make immediate decisions: one cannot hesitate because the opportunity is there and must be seized. We have lived through many situations of discontinuity, think of the Covid pandemic, in the emergency climate in which we found ourselves. We had to have quick thoughts then, make decisions to ensure continuity for our companies despite such a complex moment. Or in generational transitions, when the passing of the baton occurs abruptly, unexpectedly, and unplanned; the relay race is competitive, and therefore one must be fast. On the other hand, I would associate slowness more with values, value scales, and relationships, with the construction of teams, long-term plans, and strategies. These two modes, speed and slowness, go together, since to be fast one must also have solid preparation and values behind them”.

Several sports legends of the past and present, born in Mantova or connected to this city, then took the stage.

From racing driver Bruno Giacomelli to football champion Roberto Boninsegna and sprint cyclist Learco Guerra Jr: three authentic champions. Following them were Giovanni Grazioli, European record holder in the 4×100; Onorio Marocchi, winner of the World Cup in bobsleigh; Simona Parmiggiani, Italian champion in the 100 hurdles; Diego Marani, Italian champion in the 200 meters and 4×100; and young Federico Biancoli, Italian champion 2024 in pole vault.

This first part dedicated to sports closed with a clip—recorded aboard a sailing boat—by Guido Meda, a well-known television personality, Deputy Director of Sky Sport, and commentator for MotoGP.

“For my motorcycle relationships, I am closely connected to the concept of speed – Meda began – In the sport I comment on, MotoGP, the champion who reaches maximum speeds wins: we are talking about 367.5 kilometers per hour right now. Nevertheless, as you can see, I have chosen as a hobby and as a moment for my ‘salvation’ and my ‘psychoanalysis’ a sport [Meda, as mentioned, is aboard a sailing boat, Ed. Note] that is generally slow: there, we talk about 367, here when going fast we talk about twenty kilometers per hour. Let’s say that speed is what pursues us in our professional days, as we aim for achieving results in very short times and speed of execution… But I remember very well Valentino Rossi’s words when he said that speed can become haste, which is why, in his name, all those aspects that require slowness to be elaborated are transformed…”.

 

The second part of the meeting, dedicated to Speed/Slowness in cultural activities such as music and art, was opened by a clip from musician and jazz composer Dino Betti Van Der Noot.

“Largo, larghetto, adagio, andante, allegro – Betti explained – there are indeed many inclinations left to the instinct of the performer in a musical score, as dictated by the situations in which they find themselves at the moment of execution. There is nothing absolute; however, we move within the precise limits that have been suggested by the composer. In fact, if we look at the choice offered by the indication ‘adagio’, for example, we observe a range that goes from 96 to 120 beats per minute: a significant difference that can lead to completely different performances. Thus, the concept of speed and slowness in music, as in my opinion in every field, is a completely relative topic. A striking example is given by comparisons of performances of the same piece by different conductors. Beethoven’s Eroica conducted by Toscanini lasts just over 45 minutes, whereas with Giulini it lasts about an hour and 5 minutes. Toscanini’s is certainly exhilarating, while Giulini’s reveals the refined details that would otherwise be lost. Which is better? For an audience that does not pay much attention to subtleties, Toscanini’s; for an audience capable of enjoying the music in all its details, Giulini’s”.

 

It was then time for the intervention of art critic Nicolas Ballario.

“Someone in the previous interventions asked if there is still room for reflective slowness. I deal with art that always carries a problem of comprehensibility because I focus on contemporary art, which brings with it a lot of doubts. It’s the ‘I could have done that too’, the ‘this is not art’: phrases that I must often say are true, but the theme of today’s meeting is fantastic for me because I believe that art, especially contemporary art, can achieve the magic of developing a fast slowness. All art has been contemporary, even if we often read it through the eyes of history… Its role is, in a sense, to make us faster. But it is also very slow in consumption. If one wants to approach contemporary art, which seems so complex, so incomprehensible, one must take time. And that’s also why I fell in love with it: in a world where everything is very fast, everything is at your fingertips on social media, I don’t mind that something needs to be deepened to be truly understood. I would like to quickly show you some works that, at first glance, one might say ‘you’re kidding me’, but which instead carry the weight of a story, a life, perhaps a pain. Here are some images of an artist who recently passed away: Bill Viola. He creates very slow videos of just a few seconds, and in this frame, we see a video where he surprises a series of people he had set up on set with a splash of water. All this unfolds in four or five seconds, but he stretches the time, making those few seconds last an eternity. But what is inside? If one could contextualize, take time, trust in slowness at the expense of speed, many stories could be understood because within these images lies all the meaning of his childhood, when Bill Viola as a boy was on a boat trip with his uncle and fell into the water, not knowing how to swim, and in those few seconds when he was risking death, drowning, he saw that underwater there was a slowed life, slow movements, a different light refracted on the water. He spent his whole life trying to recreate that moment, that ecstasy he felt in those few seconds as a child. In these stretched, long videos, there is the entire meaning of a moment that lasted a few seconds; indeed, his uncle jumped into the water to save him, but for him, it will last a lifetime”.

The second part concluded with an interesting clip by Laura Delfino, a psychologist and CEO of a unique start-up: SbrisolAut, a profit-making company that produces sbrisolona, a typical Mantovan dessert, and employs only autistic individuals to do so.

The third and final part of the meeting featured the intervention of Don Stefano Savoia—Rector of the Co-Cathedral of St. Andrew the Apostle and Director of Cultural Heritage, church building, sacred art, and the Diocesan Museum of Mantova—who brought greetings from Bishop H. E. Monsignor Gianmarco Busca.

“I would like to add just a few elements to what has already been said, which naturally relates to spiritual life. The experience of faith can help us interpret the time we live in: fast/slow are not only linked to actions but also to the time of the soul… In the Bible, in Sacred Scripture, there is talk of time from the first to the last page. Genesis opens with the account of creation marked by seven days: nothing but speed!… God created the universe in seven days. Clearly, this is a symbolic reinterpretation; time must be scanned, and the entire history of creation is re-read in view of the seventh day: the time of rest, of relationship with God. Therefore, we can afford to be fast in production, in races, in everything we want, but then there is the time of rest; otherwise, our existence loses meaning, slips through our fingers… As we move forward, in Sacred Scriptures there is the time that is aligned with the relationship with God. The experience of Abraham is fundamental for all monotheistic religions because Abraham’s life—and thus his time—ties to God through two categories: the covenant and the promise, which completely change the relationship with the divine. Before Abraham, fate, destiny, time was already assigned, and the relationship with the divine consisted of reading destiny… With Abraham, however, God, the divine, ties itself to the fate of man, and the promise is a way to orient time, the future”.

Finally, there followed a presentation video of the magnificent Co-Cathedral Basilica of St. Andrew, commented on by H. E. Monsignor Marco Busca.

The intense day was concluded by Patrizio Bianchi and Livia Pomodoro, who, while greeting and thanking the speakers and the many participants at the conference and meeting in San Benedetto Po and Mantova, set the date for the twelfth stop of “In cammino”.

View full videos of each stage on the channel YouTube In Cammino

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Gallery stop Mantova